Also lines can be present on the rollers as well. This is a sign of normal wear and may not be an indication of failure. Remove the new bearing from the box. Smaller bearings have their races supplies with the replacement unit while larger bearings must have the races purchased separately. The bearing below has the race included. These bearings are matched to the race they are supplied with. Use extra care to not mix them up if you are replacing more than one bearing at a time.
Match the old bearings to the new bearings to make sure the inner and outer diameters are the same. Use wood blocks to prop the rotor hub up from the table or ground to allow clearance for the bearing race to be removed. Using a large punch with a freshly ground tip that is flat, locate the outer race lip which will stick out inside the rotor hub. Place the punch against the race lip to drive it outward while working around the race in a circular motion.
Continue until the race falls from the bottom of the hub. Turn the rotor hub over and use a shop towel to wiper the race mounting surface clean from grease. You don't want grease to be between the race and the hub surface because it will lubricate the race which is a press fit. This will cause the race to become lose and ruin the rotor.
Set the new bearing race cone facing outward squarely into the rotor hub. Next, position the old bearing race on top off the new race. Use a hammer to install the new race into the hub. Once the old race gets close to the bearing hub stop the installation so the old race doesn't get stuck.
Complete the race installation by used the large punch. A race driver can also be used for this as well. The hammer will create a distinct hardened noise once the race is completely in place as the race sits against the hub shoulder.
This is what a bearing race driver looks like. Choose the size that just is just a little smaller than the race. Once the new bearing has been installed they must be repacked with new grease and installed before the rotor can be reinserted onto the spindle.
Lift the hub and rotor while using both thumbs to hold the outer bearing in place, slide it back into position. Some resistance may be experienced, a slight jostling may be required.
Spin while installing until you feel the bearing and seal set back into place. Once the bearing hub rotor assembly is back into place, install the spindle washer which will have a tang on it that matches the groove in the spindle. After installing the spindle washer, install the nut and tighten to take away the free play but do not tighten.
This part is important, if not done correctly you can ruin the bearings. Spin the brake rotor several times while tightening the nut just enough to remove the slack, remember this nut is not to be tight, and when set, just a little loose. This action sets the bearing into their races and allows the correct bearing play and preload. The axle nut should end up almost loose, allowing the bearing lash or play to be at the minimum.
Do not over tighten, you can see the preload being set on the video in this guide. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article.
We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Park your vehicle on a flat surface. As with most types of auto maintenance, you'll want to take all necessary precautions when changing your vehicle's wheel bearings to ensure your safety.
The worst thing that can happen when changing your wheel bearings is for your vehicle to suddenly shift or roll away.
Before you begin, park your vehicle on a level surface. Put the vehicle in park or, for manuals, 1st, reverse, or neutral and be sure to put the parking brake up. The instructions below are intended as a general set of guidelines and thus will not perfectly fit every vehicle. If you run into problems while attempting to change your wheel bearing or have doubts after you finish, it's very wise to enlist the help of a professional mechanic.
Doing so can save time, prevent future headaches, and save money in the long run. Use wheel chocks to secure wheels whose bearings you aren't replacing. For added stability, it can be smart to use sturdy chocks to hold your vehicle's wheels in place. Obviously, you'll want to use chocks on the wheels you don't plan on modifying, as the wheels you do modify will be elevated off the ground. For example, you would place wheel chocks behind the rear tires if you are fixing a front wheel bearing and behind the front tires if you are working on a rear wheel.
Loosen the lug nuts and lift the wheel using a jack. For proper access to the internal components of the wheel whose bearings you're replacing, you'll need to elevate the wheel. Luckily, most vehicles come with a jack for just this purpose. Before you lift the wheel, however, you may want to slightly loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron, as breaking their initial resistance is harder without the ground holding the wheel steady.
After this, carefully lift your wheel. See wikiHow's guide on how to change a tire for help elevating your vehicle's wheel. To prevent dangerous slippage, make sure that the vehicle is securely seated on the jack and that the jack is flush with the ground before attempting to lift the wheel. It's also important to make sure the jack touches the vehicle on a sturdy, metal piece of the undercarriage, rather than on fragile plastic molding, as the weight of the vehicle can damage the latter.
Most vehicles have jack points where the frame has extra support to lift the vehicle. It's best to check the owners manual to learn the best place to position your jack. It is also extremely wise to use a safety jack stand for added support in the event the floor or scissor jack fails. Unscrew the lug nuts and remove the wheel. The lug nuts, which you should have already loosened, should come off easily.
Remove these and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them. Next, remove the wheel itself. It should come freely. Remove the brake caliper. Using a socket and a ratchet, remove the caliper's bolts. Then, remove the caliper itself using a screwdriver. Instead, hook it on a secure part of the undercarriage or use a short length of string to tie it in place.
A bungee cord or a bent wire hanger are two additional ways to secure the caliper. Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and castle nut. Since you'll need to remove the rotor, the cap and the components it protects will have to go. Usually, the dust cover can be removed by gripping it with calipers and tapping the calipers with a hammer. Inside, you'll find the castle nut, usually secured with a cotter pin.
Remove the cotter pin with pliers or wire cutters, then unscrew the castle nut and remove it and its washer. Be sure to keep these small but important parts somewhere that they won't be lost!
Remove the rotor. Place your thumb securely on the peg in the middle of the rotor assembly. Firmly but somewhat gently bump the rotor itself with the palm of your other hand. The wheel's outer bearing should loosen or fall out. Remove the outer bearing. Finally, remove the rotor itself. If the rotor gets stuck, you can use a rubber mallet to hit it loose. This can, however, damage the rotor, so it's best to use a mallet only if you are not planning on reusing the same rotor.
Unscrew the hub bolts and remove the old hub. A long screwdriver rocking on a fulcrum point like the handle of a hammer usually does the trick. With the seal out, withdraw the inner wheel bearing. Again, hold onto it for a bit in case you need to compare sizes. You should be able to see the smaller outer bearing race pressed into the front of the hub, and the larger inner race pressed into the back. If you look inside the hub from both sides, you should see two notches behind each race that allow you to bang them out.
Using a hammer and the drift of your choice e. Then move on to the other race. If you are replacing the rotors, now is a good time to take the old ones off. On my , they were held by four 8-mm Allen-head bolts, whereas on the Lotus, they were attached using traditional bolts. Draw the bolts and their lock washers out, then separate the rotor from the hub. Spray everything down with the cleaner of your choice and scour it thoroughly.
Open the package with your nice new bearing. It should contain the bearing and the race. Withdraw the race and set the bearing down on a clean paper towel or plastic sheet. Take the new race and place it in the hub. If it is badly cocked, it can gouge the mating surface, so you want to correct it as quickly as possible.
When the race is flush with the top of the hub, switch from a block of wood to using a socket whose diameter is just slightly smaller than the race. Be certain that there is no space behind the race. Then do the same thing with the other bearing race. You should now have both the inner and outer races seated.
Next comes the fun part: Packing the bearings. There are few things more automotively primal, elemental, and intimate than packing bearings. Like with motor oil, many people swear by certain greases. Either wash your hands or use a pair of rubber gloves. Take a good-sized glob of grease and put it in the palm of your hand. Replenish the grease in your palm as necessary. Do this for both the front and back of the bearing. When the bearing is well-packed, put it down on a new clean paper towel.
Do this with both the inner and outer bearings.
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