I also have a WLF coming and will probably be using that more often as well. Will having the chain rattle around loose inside cause any damage? Posts: 7, Welcome to the forum! Last edited by gofour3; at PM. Photos: Gallery. Posts: 1, I had a broken chain on mine, and had Eric fix it and do a CLA, which he said it needed due to buildup of metal dust on the electro magnets.
It has been great since. Worth the cost, but more expensive than the average body. That is some bad luck. I've had my original 6x7 since and also two others I use quite a bit. Never had this problem. The breaking chain is not as common as you might have heard. Using the lenses on MAN works for some people but you would have to try it to see for yourself.
Photos: Albums. A breaking chain is stress-induced, not one that occurs just for the sake of fracturing. It can and does happen if the lens-prism re-mount procedure is not followed as this will impose stress on the chain through operation of the aperture ring on the lens. The first indication that the meter isn't coupling correctly is when there is no meter operation.
Repair is best left to those with a knowledge of the minutiae of precision measurements that must be observed during re-assembly of the flange area. Stop-down separate metering is very tedious and error-prone. If you have a solid background in hand-held metering this may not be a problem, but for a lot of people it is a disincentive to use a grand old camera like this.
As you are new to this camera, a procedure must be followed when removing the prism for whatever reason. If you remove the prism, and a lens is mounted, then remove the lens. Remount the prism first and then secondly, remount the lens. If this process is not followed, the coupling pin attached to the chain and visible in the narrow slot running along the front of the base of the focusing screen escutcheon will not engage correctly with the metering prism and be placed under duress as the aperture ring is used back and forth.
This procedure is very important when using the TTL metered prism. Last edited by Silent Street; at PM. These users Like Silent Street's post:. Originally posted by Silent Street. If it helps any, here are my YouTube videos about the 6X7: Youtu. Posts: The rest are usually pretty banged up but still often work just fine with a little TLC.
It does not work without film, unless the film counter dial is rotated away from the reset position while the back is open and closed while still holding the dial. The camera locks again when the counter dial has exposed the last frame. Some most impressive optics makes up the lenses available for this camera including range of leaf shuttered ones, satisfying flash sync requirements and solving mirror and shutter vibration problems. Half way through its production life the vibration problem was lessened by introducing a mirror lock-up feature in Sliding a switch on the right hand side of the mirror housing upwards releases the mirror.
Camerapedia Explore. Attachment The maximum upload file size: 1 MB. You can upload: image. Drop file here. Skip to content. Please Share This Share this content Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window. Pentax 67 — Since ! Still a Cult Photographers like Tim Walker and Spencer Tunick , plus a bevy of other photographers, are still using this camera.
Chimney Finder Well, with lenses attached,…I cannot lie. Main Differences are Minor The main difference between the 67 and 67 II, besides they changed a few parts to plastic on the 2 , is; AE mode and six segment multi-pattern metering with selectable spot or center-weighted metering.
Dial-controlled exposure compensation. Memory lock. Multiple exposure capability. TTL metered auto flash when used with hot shoe on accessory grip. Large LCD data panel. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Comment. Enter your name or username to comment. Enter your email address to comment. Enter your website URL optional. Close Menu. Year introduced. Meter range.
Meter pattern. Your left hand should be on the lens barrel anyways to adjust aperture, check the depth of field preview and focus. One thing that took getting used to on the this version of the P67 was the shutter speed dial on the left side. You instinctively want to turn that top knob but actually you have turn the ridged dial underneath it to change the shutter speed. Focusing with the Pentax 67 is smooth and elegant, aperture clicks nicely into place. Not buttery satisfying as a Leica but nothing is.
The stock focusing screen is not the brightest but nothing to gripe too much about. Would love to try a Maxwell Hi-Lux screen to see if it really makes a difference.
It is extremely difficult to see the entire frame even with your glasses smushed to the eye cup. Why the Pentax 67 and not the 67ii? For the price of a 67ii these days, you can get two 67 bodies and a cheapish lens and the differences are not worth the price gap.
Indeed, the AE prism on the Pentax 67ii is a nice luxury to have but not a deal breaker. Like Wesley said, put that money to film, travel, etc. I've been in Japan for 11 years, initially as a graphic designer for a major ad agency then after the earthquake said f this s, became a freelancer and never looked back.
Agree Michael. These are beautiful cameras and the results you get easily outweigh! I carry my 67 one of two with a f2. Mine has Portra almost exclusively in it. Outweigh… i see what you did there Terry : Yeah something magical about Portra and that lens indeed. Hi Michael, I thoroughly enjoyed your write up and never get tired of seeing pictures of my favorite camera! It requires the removal of the frame and some focusing calibration but is well worth the faf!
And with the grips on both ends I find it quite comfortable, shifting between both my hands and not using the strap at all. Devlin, Which 67II focusing screen did you get? Would love to use my 67 more, but focusing with that screen is damn hard! Here in Japan for a year…….. It came with the mm f2.
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